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In 1982, while driving a load of just-picked fruit to Sonoma, Joel Peterson hit a pothole while turning from Adobe Road onto Stage Gulch Road. His truck turned over in the middle of the intersection, spilling four tons of grapes onto the road.

Joel didn't panic. He just dusted himself off, called Angelo Sangiacomo and pretty soon a crew was there to pick up the grapes.

Though Sangiacomo is one of Sonoma's best-known vineyardists, he hadn't grown the grapes that ended up on the pavement. But that didn't matter to Angelo. As Ravenswood's landlord in the 1980s, he served as the winery's private emergency service. For example, when Joel first moved into Sangiacomo's warehouse in the Carneros district (behind a woodworking shop that had once made toilet seats), he needed heavy equipment to move his fermenters and French-oak barrels. Since Joel couldn't afford a forklift, he borrowed one from Angelo—and would go on borrowing it for the next decade.

Joel was intrigued when Sangiacomo budded 20 acres of Riesling vines over to Merlot, so he bought half of the first crop in 1989. Surprise! It rained seven times during that harvest, one of the most difficult in California history. But because of who grew it and where it came from, the '89 Sangiacomo Merlot is still drinking well today.

Carneros has a marginal climate for Merlot, which needs a lot of hang-time for full flavor development. But that isn't dissimilar to conditions in Bordeaux, where Merlot achieves its highest expression. Raised with care by Angelo and hand-crafted with Old World techniques by Joel, the Ravenswood Sangiacomo isn't unlike a powerful wine from Pomerol: forceful, spicy and complex, with a firm backbone behind its smoky herbs and cherries. Drinking the garden variety of Merlot that later came in with the California craze, you'd never guess that the grape has so much natural integrity. Angelo must have concluded that his Merlot experiment was a success: today he farms 150 acres of the varietal, with much of it still going to Ravenswood. The picked grapes now have to be trucked about five miles to the winery, but the drivers have instructions to avoid the intersection of Stage Gulch and Adobe Road. Angelo isn't Joel's landlord any more—and besides, the Sangiacomos have other things to do with their time.

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FLAVOR PROFILE: Full, ripe, round and supple blackberry and vanilla flavors
Location Valley, Carneros
Acreage 900 total (Kaiser block 20 acres)
Year planted 1969
Soil type Shallow, gravel and clay loam
Climate Cool foggy mornings, moderate days, cool breezy evenings
Elevation 15-20 feet
Exposure Slightly rolling valley floor
Spacing Varies
Yield 1.5-2 tons per acre Merlot, 3.5 tons per acre Chardonnay
Varietals Chardonnay, Merlot
Rootstock St George/110R
Barricia
Belloni
Big River
Dickerson
Gregory
Old Hill
Pickberry
Rancho Salina
Sangiacomo
Teldeschi
Vineyard Designates County Series Vintners Blend